ATM

Antigua presented plenty of opportunities for us to use ATMs to replenish our cash. Lake Atitlan, on the other hand, has very few ATMs, and there were no machines in the tiny community of Jaibolito where we were staying. Since our cash was about depleted, we had no choice but to take a trip into Panajachel.

Panajachel is the town at the edge of the lake where we first arrived. The name is derived from the Kaqchikel language and roughly translates as "place of the Matasanos." Matasano is a fruit tree native to the lake region, and is credited with an array of curative powers. Panajachel is the center for the tourist trade of the area, as it provides a port for visitors crossing the lake to visit other towns and villages.

We caught a boat from our dock in Jaibolito back to Panajachel, and headed straight to the DF (Despensa Familiar) which was in actuality the local Walmart. Although it assumes a different name, and has yet another name in Guatemala City, the store still has the WalMart logo and the fine print clearly indicates it is a Walmart. We were advised to use the ATMs at the DF because they are the safest machines in the area. Many of the ATMs, we were told, are rigged so that people can capture the account numbers and passwords of users. The DF also provided armed guards to keep people from tampering with them.

After successfully acquiring the cash we thought we needed for the rest of the week, we walked down the main street which was lined end to end with vendors. We had hoped to escape the persistent street vendors when we left Antigua, but they were out in full force here, and more determined than ever.

Panajachel street market

Restaurants were plentiful and the workers were just as determined to entice tourists into their parlors as the vendors were to sell their wares. As we found out later, they often worked together. We were successfully enticed into an Italian restaurant and ordered pizza and no sooner than we had ordered, several street vendors were invited in to make their pitch. We were a captive audience, and the girls refused to leave. In fact, they appeared to be a distraction as the cook made a quick run to the market to buy the ingredients for the pizzas we had just ordered.

While we managed to get out with full bellies and no purchases from the vendors at our table, we soon discovered we had eaten at one of the more expensive places. That was the beginning of our money woes.
The vendors were thick and ready for a sale or two, or three, or more. There really were some good deals and some good products, and we did buy. Even a purchase did not relax the vulturous vendors, and the same people we just bought from only pressed that much harder for an additional sale. One girl followed us the entire length of the street and just wouldn't accept no for an answer. She showed us the same items repeatedly for about 20 minutes and refused to leave our side. By the time we reached the end of the street, which was quite long, we quickly switched directions and finally out maneuvered the small yet determined vendor.

A few vendors at the street market

When we had a free moment to review our purchases and count our remaining money, we found we had spent almost the entire amount we had just withdrawn that was supposed to last us the week. Back to the DF we went for another withdrawal. We picked up a few groceries while there, and took a TukTuk back to the dock which helped us avoid all the pesky vendors.

Mayan girl on the boat

The boat ride back didn't turn out to be much of a reprieve. Our best guess was that the small water craft was designed to seat 18 people, and possibly a few more of the tiny framed locals. Sandwiched like Guatemalan sardines, we counted 36 for the return trip. The water was choppy and the motor was taxed to carry the oversized load. The heavy boat sat so low in the water that we couldn't help but take on some water from the spray. A tarp was pulled over the front of the seating area to keep the people in that part from getting drenched, yet water still managed to make its way in. We listened to the whine of the struggling motor and looked for possible exits should the boat succumb to the weight and the waves. We decided that for safety's sake we should count life preservers and make a claim for the most accessible; there were only 13.

We were exhausted upon returning to our guest house, yet grateful for having arrived safely. After our breathing returned to normal, we pulled out our purchases. Due to the blur of the vendors and the rush of clothes, tapestries and jewelry shoved into our faces, we realized that we weren't even sure what we bought. We were a bit eager to actually see all of what we purchased on our outing.